Replacing the Heater Element

The heater element consists of a solid strand of resistance wire coiled into a spring-like shape and suspended in ceramic insulators. The insulators and coil are held in a wire frame which is fitted into the metal heater housing of the dryer.

As the coil is powered, it heats to cherry red. The heat generated from the element coil warms air as it circulates past it which is then used to dry clothing inside the dryer drum. The insulators keep the electrified coil from coming into contact with the element's metal housing which would result in a short circuit. Replacing the element will most likely be the first repair required for your dryer.

Procedures for Gathering Confirming Data

(Figure 1) Disconnect the power cord and move the dryer far enough away from the wall that you can disconnect the dryer vent hose.
There are at least 5 sheet metal screws holding the rear access panel on. Use either a 5/16 inch or 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the screws. Leave the top, middle, screw for last and set the panel aside.
Locate the heater chimney to your right when facing the rear of the dryer.
Examine the two heavy red wires connected to the heater element at the base of the chimney. Is one of them burned in two at the terminal? If so a short piece of wire and a new terminal must be spliced onto the end of the burned wire.
Examine the high limit thermostat on the left side of the heater chimney. If it has a charred black spot on it, the internal switch probably has burned open. Go to the thermostat section for further fault verification and replacement information.
If everything looks OK outside the heater chimney, remove one of the big red wires connected to the heater element at the base of the chimney. Put your ohmmeter in the lowest resistance range and measure the resistance across the two heater element terminals. If you read 18 to 20 ohms, your heater element is OK. If your meter doesn't move, the element is broken and you need to proceed on to its replacement. If you don't have an ohmmeter proceed on to the replacement procedure where you will remove the element and you can examine it for broken heater wires.

Tools Required

An ohmmeter would be nice but is optional
5/16 or 1/4 inch nut driver
Stub flat blade screw driver or a 1/4 inch drive socket wrench, a 10 inch extension and a 5/16 inch socket

Parts Required

Whirlpool dryer element part no. 4391960 replaces older part numbers 279598, 279247 and 279248

Procedures for Replacing the Heater Element

If you have skipped the data gathering steps above, unplug the dryer and pull it far enough away from the wall to remove the vent hose.
(Figure 2) Remove the 5/16" or 1/4" screws securing the rear access panel, leaving the top center screw for last. Set the panel aside.
Remove the two wires connected to the limit thermostat on the side of the chimney. You need only remember that the wires go to the thermostat (their order is not important) and the spade connectors on the ends of the wires will only fit the thermostat. Remove the two red wires at the bottom of the chimney connected to the terminals mounted in ceramic insulators. These terminals are part of the heater element.
Now go up to the top of the dryer and remove the two screws under the lint filter (pull the filter out first).
(Figure 3) We need to open the top of the dryer now. Slide a putty knife in between the dryer top and the cabinet to release the clips holding the top down. Push in and pry up about 2.5" in from each corner (see the diagram below). DO NOT use a screwdriver for this step or you might damage the finish on the dryer top or cabinet.
Grab a stub flat blade screwdriver or a short 5/16" nutdriver (you aren't going to have much room), raise the top (use your head to prop it up) and remove the 5/16" sheet metal screw securing the mounting strap on top of the heater chimney (it's way to the back and to your left). Before you remove the strap note how it is looped through the slot on top of the chimney. When you can remove and replace this strap without seeing it, you can take a shortcut here and use a 1/4 inch socket wrench with at least a 10 inch extension and a 5/16 inch socket to reach in via the little hole in the rear of the dryer cabinet to remove and install the 5/16 inch screw securing this strap. Now remove the strap and lower the top.
Go back to the rear of the machine and pull the top of the chimney back and out of the drum bulkhead. Note how the chimney sits on two mounting brackets for later reinstallation. Lift the chimney up and off of its mounting brackets.
Lay the chimney down with the vent on the top facing you. Remove the 5/16" sheet metal screw near the bottom. This releases the heater element. Slide the old element out. Confirm that it has failed by locating the break in the coil.
Position the chimney above the mounting brackets and carefully lower it into the slots. Push the top of the chimney back into the hole in the drum bulkhead. If the chimney doesn't fit snugly into the hole, check the alignment of the slots at the base of the chimney with those in the mounting brackets.
Raise the top again and replace the mounting strap and the screw at the top of the chimney. Lower the top and lock the clips by pushing the top down. Replace the two screws that were under the lint filter. Slide the lint filter back in.
Reconnect the two wires to the limit thermostat and the two red wires to the heater element terminals. If the heater element terminals are different from those on the ends of the wires that you disconnected, use the connectors supplied with the new element and splice them onto your wires.
Replace the rear access panel and its mounting screws. Reconnect the dryer vent hose and plug in the power cord. Check for proper operation.

Figure 1 (Return)

Figure 2 (Return)

Figure 3 (Return)